Climbing roses are quintessentially English and highly versatile, perfect for clothing an unsightly wall or fence, or covering archways, obelisks and trellises. Smaller growing varieties can be trained around poles in a “pillar” formation, especially useful in smaller gardens where floor space is at a premium. The flexible canes of climbing roses make them easy to fan out and as their growth is not too vigorous, they will not overwhelm their support structure. They will provide superb repeat blooms and a delicious scent, perfect for adding height, colour and perfume to your garden. There are also larger, more vigorous rambling roses, which are best in bigger gardens to cover unsightly buildings or large objects and provide a magnificent summer display.
What are climbing roses?
↓
How to choose a climbing rose
↓
Where to grow climbing roses
↓
What support do climbing roses need?
↓
When to plant a climbing rose
↓
How to plant a climbing rose
↓
Growing climbing roses in containers
↓
Training climbing roses
↓
Pruning climbing roses
↓
Other care tips for climbing roses
The vast majority of roses are grafted, which means the stem of one rose is joined to the roots of another rose. The top part of the rose is called the scion and the bottom part is called the rootstock. Grafting allows the scion rose to perform better and faster than it would on its own roots as it helps impart some of the rootstock’s vigour into the top part of the rose.
Climbing roses are no different. Most climbing roses are grafted onto a rootstock called Doctor Huey, which produces branches that are rigid enough to produce a balanced framework with new shoots that are pliable enough to be easily tied into your support structure. The scion variety is the name you’ll see listed by rose growers/retailers on their website and in rose catalogues, such as Rose Blue Girl or Rose Iceberg.
Climbing roses are otherwise very much like shrub roses – they produce beautiful, sweetly-scented blooms against a backdrop of slightly toothed, glossy deep green leaves with a vigorous growth habit. Most climbing roses produce blooms repeatedly through the summer with some varieties continuing to flower into early autumn. They are perfect for bringing vertical accent to the garden, delivering a fabulous display of summer blooms on a small footprint.
Best Selling Climbing Roses
There is a vast range of different climbing roses available, so it’s worth taking the time to find one that’s right for you and your garden.
Consider these areas when choosing a climbing rose:
Red Climbing Roses
Pink Climbing Roses
Small Climbing Roses Ideal for Pillars and Small Spaces
Large Growing Climbers and Ramblers
Climbing roses grow best in full sun in a moist yet free-draining soil. They will thrive on clay providing the ground does not lie wet…
Climbing roses are highly versatile - strong growing varieties are ideal for covering decorative obelisks, arches, walls, trellises and fences whilst shorter varieties can be trained around poles and tripods to form 'pillars'.
Climbing roses need a support structure to grow up because they are not self-clinging. They can be supported by a variety of structures, including trellises, arbours, pergolas, fences, obelisks, columns, or pyramids…
(1) Plant one climbing rose on either side of the arch. The aim, over time, will be for the two roses to meet in the middle at the top of the arch.
(2) Tie in the roses: As the roses grow, use soft garden twine to gently guide and tie the rose canes to the arch. The goal is to create even coverage of the arch, with the roses meeting in the centre at the top.
(3) Prune: To create a tall and slender arch, prune back the side shoots while allowing the main stems to grow.
(4) Be patient: Roses need time to establish before they start climbing.
Double-Digging the Soil
Installing your Support Structure
Digging the Planting Hole
Tease out the roots from the rootball
Soak the rootball in a bucket of water
Position root ball in the planting hole
Backfilling
Firming Down
Removing ties, labels etc
Roses also grow well in containers, which is a good option if you have a heavy clay soil or just want to add a splash or colour to the patio. Choose a deep container to accommodate the rose plants deep tap root system (except for miniatures where you will get away with a smaller pot).
Choose a loam-based compost such as John Innes No 3, water well and top-dress with rose fertiliser each April. All other planting steps are the same as for growing roses in the ground (see above) but you'll need to pay special attention to feeding your rose using rose feed or another high potassium fertiliser regularly during the summer flowering period.
You will need to train the stems of your climbing rose to its support structure each autumn, before the new growth becomes too stiff and less malleable. Training allows the rose to continue to grow up and out across its available space. It also helps your rose to flower at its best because the bending and twisting of the stems slows down the flow of sap and promotes more flowering shoots for the following summer. Always start with the right equipment - thick gloves and a sharp pair of secateurs are essential.
Fan out the stems, curl them around your support structure/wires and tie them in using string where needed. If you’re growing the rose up an arch or trellis, train the shoots almost horizontally initially, then upwards to create a well-balanced framework and encourage lateral flowering side shoots. This will prevent your rose from becoming leggy, help it to produce more flowers and create a pleasing, spreading growth habit.
If the main stems are slow to branch during initial training, tip prune them to a strong bud to encourage the development of side shoots. To help develop a taller climber more rapidly, remove some of the shorter twiggy stems from the base. It typically takes climbing roses about two to three years to become well established and reach full height.
Correctly pruning your climbing roses will encourage the development or strong new shoots to replace older, depleted stems, plus improve the summer flower display. Prune in late autumn, after the flowers have faded (October to November is best) and preferably when the rose is not in leaf, as this will make it easier to see what you are doing and encourage vigorous growth in the spring. We do not usually recommend any pruning for the first 2 years (except removing dead, damaged or weak stems), but the steps below will serve you well after this time.
Start by removing all dead, diseased and damaged stems. Next, shorten any long, sprawling shoots or tie them in to prevent damage from strong winds. Main leaders should be cut back just slightly and flowered side shoots reduced to about 6 inches, or two-thirds of their length. If your plant becomes heavily congested, cut out one-third of the oldest branches from the base to improve air circulation and encourage new growth.
Always follow the rule of making a clean cut at an angle above a bud, with the cut facing the direction you want the new shoot to grow.
Prune and train your rambling roses in late summer by cutting out some of the oldest stems at the base. Then fan out the remaining branches along your wires or support structure, following the training steps above. Remove one third of the oldest shoots to the base once your rambler has covered its entire support, to encourage it to rejuvenate and replace old wood with strong new branches. Shorten side shoots to leave 2-4 strong buds and tie in remaining stems to form a balanced framework.
Watering, Feeding and Mulching
Water well in the first couple of years, especially if planting in a shady or dry place. Do not mulch your rose in its first year but top dress with an organic matter such a well-rotted garden compost, manure or green waste thereafter. Roses are greedy plants and will need plenty of potassium to produce good blooms. Spread a granular rose feed over the soil around your roses before mulching in spring. Make sure neither the fertiliser nor the mulch get too close to the stems.
Deadheading
Dead-head climbing roses throughout the summer and autumn to encourage more flowers. Stop dead-heading at the end of autumn if your climber is still flowering at this point to avoid encouraging new growth that would be vulnerable to frost damage.
Pests and Diseases
Climbing roses tend to be highly bred so may be more prone to the fungal disease black spot. The best preventative steps are to mulch regularly or under-plant with low ground cover bushes such as lavender. If your rose does suffer from black spot, treat with a fungicide spray. We only stock roses with a good level of disease resistance.
Shop Climbing Roses
Share this page: