Prunus Avium Bare Root (Wild Cherry)

Prunus avium, commonly known as Wild Cherry, Gean, or Bird Cherry, is one of Britain's most beloved native trees, combining spectacular spring blossom, attractive bark, vibrant autumn colour, and valuable wildlife habitat with edible cherries. This magnificent deciduous tree brings multi-season interest to gardens whilst supporting an exceptional diversity of British wildlife. The beautiful white spring flowers herald the arrival of warmer weather, whilst the glossy mahogany bark provides year-round interest and the fruits feed countless birds. These bare root trees establish reliably when planted during the dormant season, offering gardeners the opportunity to grow a truly native British tree that connects directly to our woodland heritage whilst providing beauty, wildlife value, and potentially a harvest of sweet cherries for decades to come.

Key Features

Prunus avium is a medium to large deciduous tree with an elegant, upright habit when young, developing a rounded to broadly columnar crown with age. The tree typically reaches 12-18 metres in height with a spread of 8-12 metres at maturity, though in ideal conditions it can grow considerably larger. The growth rate is moderate to fast, typically adding 40-60 cm per year when young.

One of the tree's most celebrated features is its spectacular spring blossom display. In April to early May, before or just as the leaves emerge, the tree becomes covered in clusters of pure white, five-petalled flowers that create a breathtaking cloud of bloom. Each flower measures approximately 2-3 cm across with prominent stamens, and they appear in drooping clusters of 2-6 flowers. The blossom is delicately fragrant and highly attractive to bees and other early pollinators, creating a buzzing halo of life around the tree during flowering.

The bark is particularly striking and provides year-round interest. It's glossy and reddish-brown to mahogany in colour with distinctive horizontal banding (lenticels) that encircle the trunk and branches. As the tree matures, the bark develops an attractive peeling quality, with papery strips curling away from the trunk. This beautiful bark is especially striking in winter sunlight and when wet with rain, when the colour deepens and glows.

The leaves are oval to oblong, measuring 7-15 cm long, with finely serrated edges and a pointed tip. They emerge bronze-tinged in spring, quickly maturing to fresh bright green. The foliage provides dense summer shade and turns gorgeous shades of crimson, scarlet, orange, and gold in autumn before falling, creating one of the finest autumn colour displays of any British native tree.

Following successful pollination (requires cross-pollination with another cherry tree), the tree produces small cherries in late June to July. These fruits are typically 1-2 cm in diameter, ripening from green through red to dark purple-black when fully ripe. The cherries are sweet and edible (hence "avium" meaning "of birds"), though they're smaller and less fleshy than cultivated varieties. They're excellent eaten fresh, though you'll be competing with birds for the harvest! The fruits can also be used for preserves, cherry brandy, or wine.

Growing Conditions

Wild Cherry thrives in deep, moist, well-drained, fertile soils and performs best in rich loams or clay-loams. It tolerates clay soils well provided drainage is reasonable, and also grows adequately in sandy soils if moisture is sufficient. The tree tolerates both slightly acidic and alkaline conditions (pH 5.5-7.5) and isn't particularly fussy about soil type, though it struggles in shallow, dry, or waterlogged soils.

Good drainage is important – whilst the tree appreciates moisture, it dislikes permanently waterlogged conditions. However, once established, it has reasonable drought tolerance and copes with typical British summer dry spells without problems.

Wild Cherry requires full sun or light shade for best growth, flowering, and fruiting. In too much shade, flowering is reduced and growth becomes leggy. The tree is fully hardy throughout the UK (USDA zones 3-8), being native to Britain, and tolerates temperatures well below -25°C. It withstands exposure and wind reasonably well once established, though young trees benefit from some shelter.

The tree tolerates urban pollution moderately well and can be grown in suburban gardens and parks, though it's most at home in rural settings, woodland edges, and naturalistic plantings. It has some tolerance of coastal conditions but doesn't thrive in very exposed maritime locations with strong salt spray.

Wild Cherry is naturally a tree of woodland edges, hedgerows, and mixed deciduous woodland, where it often grows alongside oak, ash, hazel, and other native species. It prefers cool, moist climates and thrives throughout Britain, particularly in lowland and upland areas with reasonable rainfall.

Planting Instructions

Bare root Wild Cherry should be planted between November and March whilst the trees are completely dormant and leafless, and the ground is workable – not frozen or waterlogged. Upon arrival, unwrap the tree and check the roots are moist. If they appear dry, stand the roots in a bucket of water for 2-4 hours before planting. Plant as soon as possible after receipt for best establishment.

Spacing: For individual specimen trees, allow at least 10-12 metres from buildings, boundaries, and other large trees to accommodate the mature spread. For woodland planting or mixed native hedgerows, space trees 5-8 metres apart, alternating with other native species. For traditional orchard-style planting, space 8-10 metres apart.

Critical consideration: Before planting, consider the tree's ultimate size (12-18 m tall, 8-12 m spread), root system, and fruit drop. Avoid planting too close to buildings, particularly on clay soils where roots might contribute to subsidence through water extraction. Also avoid planting directly over patios, paths, or drives where falling cherries might create staining or slip hazards.

If you want fruit production, you'll need to plant at least two different wild cherry trees (or have other cherry trees nearby) for cross-pollination, as the tree is not reliably self-fertile.

Choose a position in full sun or light shade, ideally in a sheltered spot protected from late spring frosts which can damage blossom. The tree looks magnificent as a specimen in lawns, in mixed native plantings, or at woodland edges where it can be appreciated from multiple viewpoints.

Dig a generous square or circular planting hole approximately 80-100 cm wide and 50-60 cm deep, or at least twice the width of the root system. Keep the darker, more fertile topsoil separate from the paler subsoil. Break up the soil at the bottom of the hole thoroughly with a fork to improve drainage and encourage deep rooting, particularly important on heavier soils.

If your soil is poor, heavy clay, or very free-draining, incorporate well-rotted compost or manure into the excavated topsoil. Mix in a generous handful of bone meal or general tree and shrub fertiliser to provide slow-release nutrients during establishment.

Examine the roots carefully and trim away any that are damaged, broken, or dead using clean, sharp secateurs. Don't trim healthy roots unnecessarily. Look for and remove any circling roots that might restrict future growth.

Position the tree in the centre of the hole at the same depth it was growing previously – look for the soil mark on the stem as a guide. Planting too deep can cause problems, particularly with cherry trees which can be susceptible to collar rot if buried. The graft union (if present – some wild cherries are grown from seed) should be above soil level. Spread the roots out naturally and evenly.

For trees over 1.2 metres tall or in exposed positions, drive a robust wooden stake into the hole before positioning the tree, angled at approximately 45 degrees facing the prevailing wind (usually south-west). Alternatively, use a vertical stake on the windward side. The stake should extend about 50-60 cm above ground level. Cherry trees can be somewhat brittle and benefit from staking for the first few years.

Backfill the hole with the topsoil mixture, working it carefully around the roots to eliminate air pockets. Add the soil gradually, firming gently but thoroughly with your heel every few inches. Once filled to ground level, firm once more and create a shallow saucer shape around the tree to help direct water to the roots.

Water extremely thoroughly after planting – provide at least 20-30 litres even if the weather is wet. This settles the soil around the roots and ensures good contact, which is crucial for establishment.

Attach the tree to the stake using a proper adjustable tree tie with a spacer (to prevent rubbing), positioned about two-thirds up the stake. The tie should be secure but not overly tight, allowing slight movement which encourages the tree to develop a strong root system and sturdy trunk.

Apply a generous 7-10 cm layer of organic mulch such as well-rotted compost, bark chips, or leaf mould in a circle approximately 90-120 cm in diameter around the base. Keep the mulch 10-15 cm clear of the trunk itself to prevent rot and discourage rodents from gnawing the bark. This mulch helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, and gradually improve the soil.

Care and Maintenance

Watering: Water generously and regularly during the first 2-3 growing seasons, particularly during dry spells in spring and summer. Provide approximately 20-30 litres per week during dry weather for young trees. Consistent moisture during establishment is important for cherry trees. Once established (typically after 3-4 years), the tree is reasonably drought-tolerant and requires watering only during prolonged droughts.

Feeding: Apply a general-purpose tree and shrub fertiliser or blood, fish and bone in early spring around the root zone (beneath the canopy spread) to encourage healthy growth. Top up the mulch layer annually with well-rotted compost or manure, which provides gentle nutrition whilst suppressing weeds and retaining moisture. Cherry trees appreciate reasonable fertility for good flowering and fruiting.

Staking: Check the tree tie every 2-3 months, loosening it as the trunk expands to prevent it cutting into the bark. This is particularly important with cherry trees as they grow quite quickly and the bark is relatively soft. Remove the stake after 3-4 years once the tree is firmly established.

Mulching: Maintain the mulch layer for at least the first 5 years, topping it up annually. This is particularly important for cherry trees which benefit from cool, moist root conditions.

Weed Control: Keep a weed and grass-free circle of at least 90 cm diameter around young trees for the first 3-5 years. Grass and weeds compete for water and nutrients, which is particularly problematic for establishing fruit trees.

Pruning: Wild Cherry requires minimal pruning and should be allowed to develop its naturally elegant form. The key principle with cherry trees is to prune as little as possible to minimize risk of disease.

Remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches in mid to late summer (June-August) when the tree is in full leaf – never prune in winter or early spring when bacterial canker and silver leaf disease are most easily spread. The summer pruning allows wounds to heal quickly and reduces infection risk.

For young trees, some light formative pruning in summer can help develop good branch structure. Remove any branches that are crossing, rubbing, or growing at very narrow angles to the trunk. Maintain a clear trunk to approximately 2 metres by gradually removing lower branches over several years.

Avoid heavy pruning which stimulates excessive water shoot growth. Never top or heavily cut back cherry trees as this ruins their form and greatly increases disease risk.

If branches are damaged or need removing, always cut back to the branch collar (the slight swelling where the branch joins the trunk or parent branch) – never leave stubs which won't heal properly and can allow disease entry.

Suckers: Wild Cherry can produce root suckers, particularly if roots are damaged or the tree is grafted. Remove these promptly by cutting below ground level or carefully digging them out.

Protection: Young trees may require protection from rabbits, deer, and livestock using tree guards or fencing. Spiral tree guards around the trunk prevent bark damage from animals and strimmers.

Pest and Disease: Wild Cherry can be affected by several issues:

• Bacterial canker: Causes sunken patches on bark, gum exudation, and branch dieback. The most serious disease of cherries. Prune only in summer to reduce risk. Remove affected branches promptly.

• Silver leaf: Causes silvery sheen on leaves and staining of wood. Serious fungal disease. Prune only in summer and remove affected branches immediately.

• Cherry blackfly: Causes leaf curling and sooty mould. Usually doesn't harm tree health significantly. Natural predators usually control it.

• Cherry leaf spot: Causes spotting and early leaf drop. Rake and destroy fallen leaves. Usually doesn't harm tree health.

• Birds: Will eat the cherries! Netting is difficult on large trees, so either accept sharing with wildlife or plant multiple trees for adequate harvest.

The key to healthy cherry trees is summer pruning, avoiding unnecessary cuts, and maintaining tree vigour through adequate feeding and watering.

Uses in the Garden

Specimen Tree: The primary use for Wild Cherry is as a beautiful specimen tree providing spectacular spring blossom, attractive bark, autumn colour, and edible fruit.

Native Wildlife Gardens: Essential for wildlife gardens and native plantings, supporting an exceptional diversity of British wildlife species.

Woodland Gardens: Perfect for woodland edge plantings, naturalistic gardens, or creating small copses and native woodland areas.

Mixed Native Hedgerows: Traditional component of mixed native hedgerows alongside hawthorn, blackthorn, oak, and field maple.

Orchard Planting: Can be included in traditional orchards or fruit gardens, though the crop is small compared to cultivated varieties.

Street Trees: Sometimes used for street and park planting where the spring blossom creates spectacular seasonal displays.

Parkland: Ideal for parks, estates, large gardens, and public spaces where the blossom and autumn colour can be widely appreciated.

Conservation Planting: Important for native woodland restoration and conservation projects.

Boundary Planting: Works well in mixed boundary plantings where its height provides screening and visual interest.

Wildlife Value

Wild Cherry is absolutely outstanding for wildlife and is considered one of the top native trees for biodiversity:

For pollinators: The abundant spring blossom provides crucial early-season nectar and pollen for bees, bumblebees, and numerous other pollinating insects when relatively few flowers are available. The flowering is a major event in the pollinator calendar.

For birds: The cherries are eagerly eaten by blackbirds, thrushes, starlings, woodpigeons, and numerous other bird species – hence the name "Bird Cherry." The tree provides nesting sites for many species.

For mammals: Cherries are eaten by badgers, foxes, and small mammals when they fall. Dormice may nest in the tree. Bats forage around the canopy for insects attracted to the foliage.

For invertebrates: The foliage supports the caterpillars of numerous moth species including the orchard ermine, cherry fruit moth, and pebble prominent. Over 80 species of invertebrate are associated with wild cherry. The flowers attract butterflies and beneficial insects.

Overall biodiversity: Studies have shown that native wild cherry trees support exceptional diversity. Old specimens with deadwood are particularly valuable.

The tree is a keystone species in native ecosystems, with its early flowering supporting pollinators, its cherries feeding birds during nesting season, and its foliage supporting invertebrates that in turn feed birds and bats.

Fruit and Harvesting

Wild Cherry produces small but sweet edible cherries that ripen in late June to July. The fruits are typically 1-2 cm in diameter and ripen from red to dark purple-black. They're considerably smaller than cultivated sweet cherries but often have excellent flavour – sweet with a pleasant hint of bitterness.

Pollination: Wild Cherry is not reliably self-fertile, meaning you need at least two different trees (or another compatible cherry tree nearby) for good fruit set. If you want a reliable crop, plant at least two wild cherries spaced within 30 metres, or ensure there are other cherry trees in neighbouring gardens.

Harvesting: Pick cherries when fully ripe and dark-coloured, typically in July. They should pull away easily from the stalk. However, you'll be competing with birds which absolutely love them – they're called Bird Cherry for good reason! Birds often strip the tree clean within days of the fruit ripening.

Uses: Eat fresh (remove stones), use in cherry pies or preserves, make cherry brandy or wine, or simply leave them for wildlife. The small size makes them slightly fiddly to pit but the flavour is excellent.

Yield: Crop size varies enormously depending on pollination, weather during flowering, and whether birds leave you any! A mature tree might produce several kilograms of fruit in a good year, though much will likely be eaten by birds before you harvest.

Bird protection: Netting large trees is impractical. Either accept sharing with birds (the generous approach) or plant multiple trees so there's enough for everyone.

Seasonal Interest

Spring: The tree comes into leaf in April with bronze-tinged foliage that quickly expands to fresh green. The spectacular white blossom appears in April-May, creating a breathtaking display that announces spring has truly arrived. The cloud of white flowers against blue spring skies is one of the finest sights in the British gardening calendar.

Summer: Dense, glossy green foliage provides attractive shade. Small cherries ripen in late June to July, turning from green through red to dark purple-black, creating ornamental interest even if birds eat them all! The beautiful mahogany bark with horizontal banding provides interest year-round.

Autumn: The foliage develops stunning autumn colour, turning brilliant shades of crimson, scarlet, orange, and gold – one of the finest autumn displays of any British native tree. The autumn colour is particularly striking when backlit by low sun.

Winter: After leaf fall, the elegant branch structure and beautiful glossy reddish-brown bark become fully visible. The horizontal lenticels (breathing pores) create attractive banding around the trunk and branches. The bark is especially beautiful when wet or covered with frost, and provides valuable winter interest.

Wild Cherry vs Cultivated Cherries

Wild Cherry (Prunus avium):

• Native British species with high wildlife and conservation value

• Smaller fruits (1-2 cm) with excellent flavour

• Large tree (12-18 m), not suitable for small gardens

• Exceptional spring blossom and autumn colour

• Supports native British wildlife extensively

• Requires cross-pollination for fruiting

• More disease-resistant than cultivated varieties

• Self-sowing and naturalizes

Cultivated Sweet Cherries (Prunus avium varieties):

• Bred for large fruit size and productivity

• Much larger cherries (2-3 cm) with more flesh

• Can be grown on dwarfing rootstocks (2-4 m)

• Bred for fruit rather than ornament

• Less wildlife value

• Many require pollinators, some self-fertile

• Can be more disease-prone

• Specific varieties for different purposes

Choose wild cherry for wildlife value, native planting, ornamental qualities, and natural beauty. Choose cultivated varieties for maximum fruit production in smaller spaces.

Companion Planting

Wild Cherry works beautifully in native British planting schemes:

• Hawthorn, blackthorn, and rowan for traditional hedgerow and woodland edge combinations

• Oak, ash, and field maple for mixed native woodland

• Hazel and elder in the shrub layer beneath

• Dog rose, honeysuckle, and ivy for climbers

• Bluebells, primroses, and wood anemones beneath for spring colour

• Foxgloves, red campion, and wild garlic in the understorey

• Native ferns for naturalistic woodland ground cover

• Wild strawberries and violets for ground-level interest

The tree also combines beautifully with ornamental garden plants, particularly spring bulbs and shade-tolerant perennials.

Cultural and Historical Significance

Wild Cherry has been part of the British landscape since the last ice age and features prominently in folklore and tradition. The wood has been highly prized for centuries for fine furniture, musical instruments, and decorative veneers due to its beautiful colour and grain. It's still valued today for high-quality woodwork.

The cherries have been gathered from wild trees for millennia and were important in rural economies. Cherry stones have been found in Neolithic and Roman archaeological sites in Britain.

The tree features in place names (Cherry Tree, Cherry Orton) and folk customs. In some areas, cherry blossom was used in May Day celebrations.

Wild Cherry is one of the parent species of cultivated sweet cherries, which were developed through centuries of selection and breeding, originally by the Romans.

The scientific name "avium" means "of birds," reflecting the fruit's importance to wildlife, whilst "Prunus" comes from the Latin name for plum.

Special Considerations

Ultimate size: Wild Cherry is a medium to large tree suitable only for medium to large gardens with adequate space. The mature size (12-18 m tall, 8-12 m spread) means it's unsuitable for small gardens or planting close to buildings.

Root system: The roots can be quite extensive and may compete with nearby plants. Avoid planting near drains or underground services. On clay soils, maintain adequate distance from buildings (at least 10-12 m minimum).

Fruit drop and staining: Fallen cherries can stain paving and attract wasps. Avoid planting directly over patios, paths, drives, or parked cars.

Short-lived: Compared to oaks or yews, wild cherry is relatively short-lived, typically 60-100 years, though this is still a substantial lifetime.

Suckering: The tree can produce root suckers that need removing if unwanted spread is to be prevented.

Birds: Be prepared to share the cherries with birds – they'll almost certainly get most of the crop!

Disease susceptibility: Cherry trees can be affected by bacterial canker and silver leaf. Summer pruning and avoiding unnecessary cuts reduces risk significantly.

Top Tips for Success

• Only plant if you have adequate space for a medium-large tree (12-18 m tall)

• Plant between November and March whilst dormant

• Choose a position in full sun or light shade, sheltered from late frosts

• Ensure good drainage but maintain adequate moisture during establishment

• Water generously for the first 2-3 years, especially during dry spells

• Always prune in summer (June-August) if pruning is necessary – never in winter

• Plant at least two trees for good fruit production (cross-pollination needed)

• Mulch well and maintain weed-free circle during establishment

• Stake securely for first 3-4 years

• Accept sharing the fruit with birds – it's called Bird Cherry for good reason!

• Outstanding for wildlife – one of the best native trees you can plant

• Spectacular spring blossom and autumn colour provide multi-season interest

• Beautiful bark provides year-round interest, especially striking in winter

• Be patient – it takes 5-10 years for good flowering and fruiting

Plant a piece of British natural heritage with Wild Cherry bare root – a truly native tree that combines breathtaking spring blossom, beautiful bark, brilliant autumn colour, and sweet edible cherries with outstanding wildlife value. Perfect for medium to large gardens throughout Britain where this elegant tree can display its multi-seasonal beauty whilst supporting native wildlife and connecting your garden to Britain's ancient woodland heritage.

For protection from pests consider Spiral Rabbit Guards or Tree Shelters.

Please see our bare root plant guides for more information. We've put together a collect of help and advice articles covering what bare root plants are, why they are a good choice, which plants are available bare root, when and where to plant.

Deciduous plants supplied bare root during the dormancy period will not have any leaves at this time; top growth will just be brown and twiggy to start with and will come into leaf in the spring. This is perfectly normal. The plants we supply are healthy will an extensive root system. Please see the final picture for an illustration of how your plants will look when they are delivered.