The Norway Spruce is the quintessential Christmas tree, evoking nostalgic memories of traditional festive celebrations with its classic conical shape, dark green needles, and wonderful resinous fragrance. Beyond its seasonal appeal, Picea abies is a magnificent evergreen conifer that brings year-round structure, wildlife habitat, and stately presence to larger gardens and landscapes. These bare root trees establish reliably when planted during the dormant season, offering gardeners the opportunity to grow their own living Christmas tree that can be enjoyed in the garden for decades, or even to establish a small plantation for future seasonal harvests.
Norway Spruce is a large, fast-growing evergreen conifer with a perfectly symmetrical, pyramidal form that epitomises the classic Christmas tree shape. The tree naturally develops a strong central leader (main trunk) with regularly spaced whorls of horizontal branches that sweep slightly downwards, creating elegant tiers.
The needles are short (1-2 cm), four-sided, and arranged spirally around the shoots. They're a rich, dark green colour with a glossy appearance and remain on the tree year-round, providing constant evergreen presence. When crushed or bruised, the needles release the distinctive, fresh, resinous scent so strongly associated with Christmas.
Young trees have smooth, reddish-brown bark that becomes grey and scaly with age, developing attractive fissures and texture on mature specimens. The branches are naturally quite stiff and strong, easily supporting decorations if you choose to use the tree for seasonal celebrations.
As the tree matures (typically from 15-20 years onwards), it produces large, pendulous cones that hang elegantly from the upper branches. These attractive cones are cylindrical, 10-15 cm long, and ripen from green to brown, adding ornamental interest whilst providing valuable food for wildlife.
In garden conditions, Norway Spruce typically grows 30-60 cm per year when young, eventually reaching 20-30 metres in height with a spread of 6-8 metres at maturity over several decades. However, growth rate can be controlled through planting conditions and occasional pruning if desired.
Norway Spruce thrives in moist, well-drained, acidic to neutral soils (pH 4.5-6.5) and performs best in deep, fertile loam. Whilst it will tolerate a range of soil types including clay and sandy soils, it dislikes shallow, chalky, or excessively dry soils. Good drainage is important, though the tree appreciates consistent moisture and doesn't tolerate drought particularly well, especially when young.
The tree requires full sun or very light shade for best growth and form. In too much shade, the lower branches may become sparse and the symmetrical shape less pronounced. Norway Spruce prefers cool, moist climates and thrives throughout most of Britain, particularly in northern and upland areas. It's less well-suited to hot, dry regions or areas with atmospheric pollution.
This hardy conifer is fully cold-hardy throughout the UK and tolerates temperatures well below -30°C. However, young spring growth can occasionally be damaged by late frosts. The tree withstands exposure and wind once established, making it suitable for exposed upland sites, though it appreciates some shelter when young.
Norway Spruce is not particularly tolerant of urban pollution, salt spray, or atmospheric dryness, so is better suited to rural gardens, parkland, and suburban areas with clean air rather than city centres or coastal locations.
Bare root Norway Spruce should be planted between November and March whilst the trees are dormant and the ground is workable – not frozen or waterlogged. This is absolutely crucial – conifers must be planted whilst dormant. Upon arrival, unwrap the tree immediately and check the roots are moist. If they appear dry, stand the roots in a bucket of water for 1-2 hours before planting, but don't soak for extended periods. Plant as soon as possible after receipt – conifers are less tolerant of delayed planting than deciduous trees.
Spacing: For individual specimen trees, allow at least 8-10 metres from buildings, boundaries, and other large trees to accommodate the mature spread and height. For Christmas tree plantations or screening belts, space trees 1.5-2 metres apart in rows 2-2.5 metres apart. For informal groups, space 3-5 metres apart.
Choose your planting position extremely carefully, considering the ultimate size of this large tree. Avoid planting near buildings (where it could eventually cause problems with light, roots, or foundations), overhead cables, or underground services. Remember that Norway Spruce is a forest tree that will eventually dominate its surroundings.
Dig a generous square or circular planting hole approximately 60-80 cm wide and 40-50 cm deep, or at least twice the width and 1.5 times the depth of the root system. Keep the topsoil (darker, more fertile upper layer) separate from the subsoil (paler lower layer). Break up the soil at the bottom of the hole thoroughly with a fork to improve drainage and encourage deep rooting.
If your soil is heavy clay, improve drainage by incorporating grit or sharp sand and organic matter. If it's very sandy and free-draining, add plenty of well-rotted compost or leaf mould to improve moisture retention. Mix a handful of ericaceous fertiliser or bone meal into the excavated topsoil if your soil is poor or alkaline.
Carefully examine the roots and trim away any that are damaged, broken, or dead using clean, sharp secateurs. Handle the roots gently – conifer roots are more brittle than those of deciduous trees.
Position the tree in the centre of the hole, ensuring the root collar (where roots meet trunk) sits at the same level it was growing previously – look for the soil mark on the stem. Planting too deep is a common cause of failure with conifers. Spread the roots out naturally and evenly.
For trees over 90 cm tall or in exposed positions, drive a robust wooden stake into the hole before placing the tree, positioned on the windward side (usually south-west). The stake should extend about 40-50 cm above ground level.
Backfill the hole with the topsoil mixture, working it carefully between and around the roots to eliminate air pockets. Add the soil gradually, firming gently but thoroughly every few inches with your fist or heel. Avoid heavy stamping which can damage delicate conifer roots. Once filled to ground level, firm once more and create a shallow saucer shape around the tree to help retain water.
Water thoroughly and generously after planting – at least 10-20 litres – even if the weather is wet. This is crucial for settling soil around the roots and eliminating air pockets.
If you've used a stake, attach the tree using a proper tree tie with a spacer, positioned about two-thirds up the stake. The tie should be firm but allow slight movement.
Apply a generous 7-10 cm layer of acidic organic mulch such as composted bark, pine needles, leaf mould, or well-rotted compost in a circle 60-90 cm in diameter around the base. Keep the mulch 10-15 cm clear of the trunk to prevent rot. This mulch is particularly important for Norway Spruce as it helps maintain the cool, moist root conditions the tree prefers.
Watering: This is absolutely critical, especially during the first 2-3 years. Norway Spruce requires consistent moisture and doesn't tolerate drought well. Water regularly and generously during the growing season, providing 20-30 litres per week during dry spells for the first three years. Even after establishment, water during prolonged droughts, particularly in free-draining soils. The tree performs best with consistent moisture throughout the year.
Feeding: Apply an ericaceous or general-purpose conifer fertiliser in early spring to encourage healthy growth and maintain the rich green needle colour. Alternatively, use blood, fish and bone or a slow-release fertiliser. Top up the mulch layer annually with fresh acidic organic matter, which will gradually break down and provide nutrients whilst maintaining the cool, moist root conditions the tree prefers.
Staking: Check the tree tie every 2-3 months, loosening it as the trunk expands. Remove the stake after 2-3 years once the tree is firmly established.
Pruning: Norway Spruce requires virtually no pruning and is best left to develop its natural symmetrical form. The tree naturally maintains a single central leader and evenly spaced branches without intervention.
If the leader is damaged, select the strongest upright side shoot near the top and train it vertically using a cane to form a new leader, whilst removing competing shoots. If lower branches die back (natural as the tree matures), these can be removed flush with the trunk in late spring to early summer.
Never top or heavily prune Norway Spruce – it will not regenerate attractive growth from old wood and severe pruning destroys the tree's natural form permanently. Light trimming of the tips in late spring can be done if you wish to restrict size or encourage denser growth, but this should be minimal and careful.
If you're growing the tree specifically to harvest as a Christmas tree, you can shear it annually in late spring/early summer to create a denser, more compact form, though this is labour-intensive and unnecessary for garden specimens.
Mulching: Maintain the mulch layer around young trees for the first 5-7 years, topping it up annually. This helps maintain moisture, suppress weeds, and keep roots cool – all important for Norway Spruce health.
Weed Control: Keep a weed-free circle of at least 60-90 cm diameter around young trees for the first 3-5 years, as grass and weeds compete for water and nutrients during establishment.
Pest and Disease: Norway Spruce can be affected by several issues:
Generally, Norway Spruce is quite trouble-free when grown in suitable conditions with adequate moisture.
Living Christmas Tree: The primary attraction for many gardeners – plant your tree in the garden and decorate it outdoors each Christmas, or grow in a large container for several years to bring indoors during the festive season (though this shortens the tree's life).
Specimen Tree: Creates a magnificent focal point in large gardens, providing year-round evergreen structure and wildlife habitat.
Windbreak and Shelter: Excellent for creating windbreaks and shelterbelts in exposed gardens and rural properties. Plant in groups or rows for maximum effectiveness.
Screening: Provides dense, year-round screening of unsightly views or boundaries, particularly effective when planted in staggered rows.
Wildlife Habitat: Outstanding for wildlife, providing nesting sites, shelter, and food (from cones and seeds).
Forestry and Woodland: Can be planted in small woodland areas or as part of mixed woodland planting schemes.
Christmas Tree Production: For those with sufficient space, planting a small grove allows you to harvest your own Christmas trees sustainably each year.
Background Planting: Provides an excellent dark green backdrop in large mixed borders and landscape plantings.
One of the special joys of planting Norway Spruce is the possibility of enjoying your own home-grown Christmas tree:
For outdoor decoration: Plant your tree in the garden and decorate it outdoors each December. This allows you to enjoy a living tree year after year, watching it grow and mature whilst maintaining the festive tradition. Use outdoor-rated lights and weather-resistant decorations.
For indoor use (short-term): Young trees (up to about 1.5 metres) can be grown in very large containers and brought indoors for 7-10 days during Christmas, then returned outside. However, this stresses the tree and shortens its life. Keep the tree cool indoors (ideally below 18°C), away from radiators, water regularly, and return it outdoors as soon as possible after Christmas.
For harvesting: If you plant several trees spaced 1.5-2 metres apart, you can harvest one tree every few years while the others continue growing. Trees are typically ready for harvest at 5-8 years old when they reach 1.5-2 metres tall. This creates a sustainable, revolving system for home-grown Christmas trees.
Timing: Most Christmas trees are cut in late November to early December. If you're harvesting your own, choose a tree that's the right size and cut it as close to Christmas as possible for maximum needle retention.
Norway Spruce provides exceptional wildlife habitat, particularly in winter when deciduous trees are bare:
For birds: The dense evergreen foliage provides crucial winter roosting and nesting sites for goldcrests, coal tits, siskins, crossbills, and many other species. The seeds from mature cones are eaten by crossbills, siskins, and other finches. The tree structure supports nests for numerous bird species.
For mammals: Squirrels feed on the seeds and may nest in mature trees. The dense cover provides shelter for small mammals and bats use the tree structure for roosting.
For invertebrates: The needles, bark, and cones support numerous invertebrate species, including specialized conifer-feeding insects. Dead wood (on mature trees) supports beetles and other decomposers.
Overall habitat: The year-round dense cover and layered branch structure create valuable habitat complexity, particularly important in winter when wildlife needs shelter.
Norway Spruce (Picea abies):
Nordmann Fir (Abies nordmanniana):
Blue Spruce (Picea pungens):
Choose Norway Spruce for traditional scent, fast growth, and authentic Christmas tree character, particularly if planting in the garden or preferring outdoor decoration.
In garden settings, Norway Spruce works well with:
The tree's dark green provides excellent contrast with lighter foliage and creates a dramatic backdrop for colourful plantings.
Norway Spruce has been the traditional Christmas tree in Britain since the custom was popularized by Prince Albert in the 1840s, following German traditions. The species has been grown in Britain since at least the 16th century and naturalized in some areas.
The timber is commercially valuable, used for construction, paper making, and musical instruments (particularly as soundboards for pianos and violins due to its resonant qualities). The tree is also the source of Burgundy pitch, a medicinal resin historically used in plasters.
In its native range across northern and central Europe, Norway Spruce forms extensive forests and can live for 300 years or more, reaching heights of 40-50 metres.
Size: Norway Spruce is a large forest tree. Only plant it if you have sufficient space for a tree that will eventually reach 20-30 metres tall and 6-8 metres wide. Consider the long-term implications carefully.
Needle drop: Indoor Christmas trees will drop needles as they dry out – this is natural. Keep the tree well-watered and move it outdoors after the festive season if you intend to replant it.
Lower branch loss: As Norway Spruce matures, lower branches naturally die back and fall as they're shaded by upper growth. This is normal for the species.
Shallow roots: Mature trees can develop quite shallow, spreading root systems that may affect nearby plantings or paths. Allow adequate space.
Suitability: This tree is not suitable for small gardens, urban locations with pollution, dry soils, or chalky/alkaline conditions. Be honest about whether your garden can accommodate this species.
Planning permission: Very large trees near boundaries may sometimes require consideration under planning regulations. Check local requirements if relevant.
Grow your own living Christmas tree with Norway Spruce bare root – a traditional evergreen conifer that brings festive magic to your garden whilst providing year-round structure, wonderful fragrance, and valuable wildlife habitat. Perfect for larger gardens throughout Britain where space and conditions allow this magnificent tree to reach its full potential.
Please see our bare root plant guides for more information. We've put together a collect of help and advice articles covering what bare root plants are, why they are a good choice, which plants are available bare root, when and where to plant.
Bare Root is usually dispatched between early November and late March. Exact dates vary year to year depending on the weather. We cannot guarantee availability for a certain date at the beginning or end of the season.
Important Bare Root Care
As soon as you receive your bare root plants place the items upright in a bucket of clean water immediately leaving them for at least 2 hours. Only take plants out as you need them for planting.
Q: When is bare root season?
A: Our bare root season usually runs from November to March but it can depend on the weather conditions, we'd always recommend buying at the end of autumn rather than waiting for spring.
Q: Does the plant size include the roots?
A: No, all bare root plant sizes quoted exclude the roots.
Q: What size plants will I receive?
A: Stock size varies through the season, our 'Plant Size' are give as a guide and you will receive plants somewhere in that range. We are unable to specify exactly how tall the plants will be within that range.
Q: How old will the plants be?
A: Most of our 'Plant Sizes' include the age of the plant, this is shown as a sum e.g. 1+2 which in this case would indicate that the plants are 3 years old. The first number is how long the plant has spent in the seedbed and the second is the number of year it has spent lined out in the field. Where the sum starts with a 0+ this indicates that the plants were grown from a rooted cutting.
Q: Can I get a discount for bulk purchases?
A: We offer a discount banding on bare root plants making them cheaper the more you buy, see the table on each page for details of the price within each band.
Q: Do I need canes?
A: Bamboo canes are perfect for giving young saplings, hedging plants, climbers and other tall shrubs the support they need when they start to establish. Unless you are planting in a completely sheltered spot with very little chance of wind then we would always recommend using a cane for support.
Q: Do I need rabbit guards?
A: Spiral Rabbit Guards are the most popular, low cost tree protection for young saplings, seedlings, transplants and hedging plants from browsing animals such as voles, mice, rabbits and hares. Spiral Rabbit Guards have the ability to grow and expand with the growing tree, providing a sheltered environment for the tree. It's hard to say for certain if you will require the extra protection a rabbit guard provides, if your are aware of a particular pest problem in your planting location then we would recommend using them. Rabbit Guards are not suitable for 'evergreens' please see 'Shrub Shelters' for a suitable evergreen protection method.
Q: What is a shrub/tree shelter?
A: Shrub/Tree Shelters are similar to rabbit guards but are designed for use on evergreens that would sweat and die in rabbit guards. We supply shrub/tree shelters as a kit which includes the shelter, 1 Stake and 2 cable ties, one kit is required per plant.
Q: Do I need shrub/tree shelters?
A: If you are aware of any specific pest problems in your planting area then we would recommend using a shrub/tree shelter to give your young trees or hedging plants that extra protection.